The orange trees are in blossom. The fragrance is one the most fantastic
smells anywhere. You just want to draw a
deep breath, keep breathing in and never let it out. To ride through central Florida in the spring
time is made even more special because of the orange blossoms.
Today’s ride was a real treat. My idea was to take the ghost town ride I had
planned for a few weeks ago. The cumulus
clouds had built until they formed a near overcast, yet there seemed to be plenty
of thermal lift. At almost any time you could see countless hawks, turkey vultures,
black vultures and an occasional eagle.
There are many other birds in this area as well and I saw turkeys,
cranes, herons, storks, and swallow tail kites too. As I stopped to take pictures in Kenansville,
a couple of tiger butterflies floated by bobbing in the slight breeze and
disappeared behind the remains of the old post office.
Kenansville Post Office |
Kenansville may best be considered a near ghost town. It was a late 1800s cattle town on a section
of railroad that Henry Flagler built. When
the railroad pulled out, the town struggled to survive. Today, there is still an abandoned bank and school
house. The school had 100 students in
1920, 29 in 1922, but in 1962 its’ doors closed for 30 years. It reopened in 1992 but finally closed for
good in 2003.
School House |
Elvis Presley made several trips to central Florida and
Kenansville has a lasting bit of notoriety because of those trips. Kenansville is the home to the Heartbreak
Hotel. It is said that the name of the
hotel was the inspiration to the Elvis song, Heartbreak Hotel.
From the Heartbreak Hotel, it is about a 25 mile ride to
Yeehaw Junction, a town with another stop over made famous, or infamous, from
its’ past. Yeehaw Junctions’ last
remaining establishment is the Desert Inn and Motel. The Desert Inn and Motel was once the local
brothel but now houses a restaurant and motel.
This is a place to stop by and enjoy a cool drink while you take in the
unique decorations and history. On this
last visit, there were luncheon tables set outside as well as an outdoor pool
table that was getting a workout from the locals. In the past I have seen chickens scratching
around outside, but they were not seen this time. There is always a steady flow of customers in
and out of the Desert Inn. It is worthy
of a stop if you are in the area and one you will remember for quite some time.
After leaving Yeehaw Junction, I chugged my way north to see
if I could find Lokosee. Lokosee was a
turpentine producing town along the railway and has been abandoned since the
railroad closed. The old town is now
grown over but lives on at least in name as the Lokosee ranch. From Lokosee I continued north looking for
Nittaw.
Nittaw Residents |
Roadside Table |
I found an old road sign for Nittaw Ln but that is about all
that is left of this former saw mill town.
There were a few cattle where the town once stood, so I guess Nittaw is
not really a ghost town, its’ inhabitants have just changed. Further up the road is Illiahaw. Illiahaw (derived from the Indian word for
orange) was another stop on a railway and the last building still standing is
the railway substation. Illiahaw was
also a turpentine town, but when the trees were gone, the town went as
well. Today, the railway substation stands
on the edge of an orange orchard. There
is also one of the last remaining roadside tables nearby. For those not old enough to remember them,
roadside tables were placed along roads at various intervals to provide travelers
a place to rest and picnic. All this was
before interstates and our modern day version of the roadside table, the rest
stop.
Illiahaw Railroad Substation |
The last ghost town stop for the day was Holopaw. Holopaw was essentially a company owned town
for a large sawmill operation. The town
once had 2000 residents but it is mostly gone now. The railroad pulled out at about the same
time the trees played out and now the town is but a few houses and abandoned
buildings. One bright spot for
motorcyclists is Holopaw Corvette. Don’t
let the name fool you. Holopaw Corvette
is home to the local URAL and Royal Enfield dealer. I have to tell you that there could not be a
more fitting dealer location for these bikes.
Stop in and check this shop out.
Well that is it, the smell of orange blossoms, and the sight
of so many birds and cattle, six central Florida ghost towns, and perfect
weather. What a wonderful day on the
bike.
Backroad, looks and sounds like a great, quiet exploration. I pulled up MapSource and was able to follow along, each of the places you mention visible on the map.
ReplyDeleteI knew about Mr. Flagler's railroad but had no idea about the trees and turpentine.
Seeking out old rail lines is something I enjoy up here where it sometimes gets cold :) Further north, there were many rail lines, some of them narrow gauge, that pulled logs out of the northern forests. In our more southern parts of the state, there were many rail lines that served local agriculture until the highways and trucks took over. USGS Topo maps are great sources of old abandoned lines, often showing up with dashed lines, much like the roads on Mapsource show the streets in Holopaw.
All I really knew of FL was Daytona, New Smyrna Beach and Orlando....thanks for the tour!
Thanks Coop. I'll take a look at the USGS maps. I have been using the Atlas & Gazetteer set of maps for a number of years. They aften show old towns and railways that no langer exist. I have made a commitment to look at the things people look past at the local level. It is easy for many to think there is nothing around them of interest, when most often places, like life, have hidden beauty and interesting pasts.
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